pancetta & pea risotto

Risotto is a deeply calming dish, both to cook and especially to eat. What amazes me about risotto is that it starts the same but can end so many ways depending on what you add.

It starts with: onions fried gently, then the heat turned up as your arborio or carnaroli rice is added. A handy tip for measuring rice: two handfuls per person. The rice needs to get hot and toasted all over to prepare it for absorbing stock. Stock should be boiling the background (thank you, last week's chicken stock). Booze is needed here, a glass of white wine is best. Allow this to bubble to nearly nothing. Then stock is added a ladelful at a time, allowing it to reduce away until sticky. You need a bit of armwork, stirring away to move the rice off the bottom of the pan. Once the rice is tender and tasty, you can eat as is (a little dull) or add what works for you.

For me, it's grated parmesan and butter, vigorously stirred through. In this case I added fried pancetta just beforehan, kept to one side then put back into the rice at the end. Some frozen peas and it's ready. Eat with a spoon and a lazy grin.

croissants with scrambled egg and pancetta

Pure Boxing Day indulgence - flaky, moist croissants stuffed with crispy pancetta and baveuse scrambled eggs. Slightly sickly but wonderful.

an interesting gnocchi recipe

The title's ironic, OK? I posted on Facebook that I was "looking for an interesting gnocchi recipe", and that a couple of days later I had "found an interesting gnocchi recipe". Three separate people asked me about - it's easy to forget the reach that Facebook has.

Anywho, it's dead easy. First I fry some spinach with a little sliced garlic until all straggly, then season and add nutmeg before removing to one side to cool. Once it's cooled I squeeze the juice out and chop finely. Meanwhile I've some gnocchi on the boil (note: I made gnocchi myself once - it so wasn't worth the effort, nor the washing up). Then I fry some pancetta in the same pan, and once crispy I throw the boiled gnocchi in the pan to absorb some hammy flavours. Then the spinach is back in to warm through, finally some creme fraiche, s&0, a touch of parmesan (I added too much the first time) and it's done. Creamy and extremely filling.

gordon's pasta

Crappy name, sorry about that. But we've never settled on a better name for this heavenly and wholesome dish, that not only celebrates the ingredients in it, but is an absolute triumph of speed and economy. I found it via Gordon Ramsay, hence the name.

Five ingredients - that's all you need - pancetta, leeks, chestnut mushrooms, creme fraiche, conchiglie or shell pasta (I've tried all shapes and shells are the best).

Get some pasta going in boiling water. Two tips here: make sure the water is at "the rolling boil" and going great guns. Secondly, always salt the water. How much? The best advice I heard was "twice as much as you think you need" which never fails me. The pancetta starts off in a medium-heat big saucepan, and once slightly crispy, leeks go in. When tender, mushrooms, then a couple of minutes later a small tub of creme fraiche is added while the heat goes down. Season up now and have a taste. As there's not a lot of cooking going on it's going to need good seasoning to bring the flavours out. By now the pasta should be done (al dente please) so drain that and add a splash of cooking water and the shells to the mix and toss together.

That's it. Honestly. For perfection I add a dash of chopped parsley, but it's such a celebration of each of its parts it's really difficult to get wrong. Salty pancetta, tangy leeks, meaty mushrooms and a tart creamy finish, all cupped in a little pasta shell. Brilliant.